Thursday, 31 March 2011

Week 9 - Pucon and Santiago, Chile

After spending such an enjoyable time in northern Patagonia in Argentina, I decided to head over to investigate the northern side in Chile and spent 2 days in Pucon.  This entailed a 10 hour bus journey by day which was extended even further due to the rigorous Chilean border control.  So far all border crossings have been fairly relaxed and quick with minimal checking of bags, not this time around!  The ordeal began with getting off the bus on the Argentinean side, getting passports stamped to record exit out of Argentina, to then get back on the bus and drive for half an hour, to then get off the bus on the Chilean side and have your passports stamped for entry into Chile, and then all bags needed to be offloaded from the bus and put through x-ray machines whcih didn´t seem to serve much purpose as they tend to choose people from random selection to be interrogated about the contents.  It doesn´t help that Chile have very strict rules about what items can be brought into their country, going as far as to ban fruit that you are carrying on you for a snack.  As you can imagine, with 50 people on the bus this took an extremely long and painful time to say the least!

Pucon is a lovely small town situated on a lake with also one of the top 10 active volcanoes in the world, Villarrica, only located half an hour away.  It is a very popular tourist destination, both in winter and summer, particularly for hiking, watersports and skiing.  However its main attraction is the volcano and thousands visit each year with the united mission to climb to the crater.  Unfortunately for me, bad weather during my visit meant I could not complete this feat.  I did however manage to hire a bike and cycle around the area for an afternoon before the heay rain set in.  The surrounding landscape was stunning, especially views of Villarrica with its snow capped peak set against the blue backdrop. 


Pucon with view of Villarrica volcano

 
After a rather wet couple of days in Pucon I then headed for sunny Santiago to meet my friend Hannah who was joining me for the remainder of my trip.  We spent a day walking pretty much from one end of the city to the other visiting two beautiful parks and enjoying the relaxed ambience of the city. 

View of Santiago from San Cristobel park


Chile is a country well known for its production of wine so we thought it an obvious opportunity to sample some by visiting one of the world´s most famous and largest wineries, Concha y Toro.  This winery is the largest producer of wine in Latin America founded by Don Melchor de Santiago Concha y Toro in 1883.  He started his first vineyard by bringing over grapes from France (Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Merlot, and Carmenère) and planting them in Chile.  The company grew from there, particularly through the export business to Holland.  Through the acquistion of more vineyards it built up its success and reputation and now exports wines all over the world, with England being its biggest export at 55%, no surprises there!


Original house of Concha y Toro family

Concha y Toro vineyard

Wine cellar of Casillero del Diablo

We got taken on a half an hour tour of the vineyard to learn about the family history and the different varieties of wines they produce.  The vineyard is in a beautiful location with lovely gardens surrounding the original family house where Don Melchor lived with his family.  After our excursion of the grounds we then indulged is some very delicious cheese and wine tasting, the definite highlight of the tour!  We sampled 4 different red wines and were taught the various steps of how to identify the different aromas and flavours of each varietal.  We were also given 4 different types of cheese to taste along with each wine and taught how each can compliment the wine.  Sounds easy but actually we found it pretty confusing at the time, however both Hannah and I felt we did pick up a few key things during our tasting session - definitely on our way to becoming wine connoisseurs for our return to England!

We had such a lovely group of people during our tasting session and as we bonded so well from our mutual love of red wine, we all decided it would be a great idea to continue our own wine tasting session in the outdoor bar area.  So with a few bottles of Casillero del Diablo we all sat out on the terrace and shared stories of our travels so far.  Two American guys in our group alleged to be working for the US secret accompanying Obama on his visit to Santiago the next day.  They indulged us with many stories about working with Bush and Blair but to this day we will never know just how much was fact or fiction!  We then wobbled back ever so elegantly to our lovely hostel pleased with our hard day´s work! 

Wine tasting with our group

Thursday, 17 March 2011

Week 8 - Bariloche & El Bolson, Argentina

After an exhausting 20 hour bus journey from BA  I finally arrived in Bariloche, Northern Patagonia and what is known as the Lake District area.  Bariloche is a beautiful town situated right on Lake Nahuel Huapi at the foot of the Andes.  The day I arrived the weather was amazing however unfortunately this did not last long and the next two days were grey and cold.  I was hoping to do some kayaking but this got cancelled so I ended up going on a one day hike up Cerro Otto, however was not rewarded with much of a view from the top due to the clouds hence no photo!  So the rest of my time was spent idly hanging around the hostel which on the plus side resulted in meeting several lovely people and joining some on their trip to El Bolson, 2 hours south of Bariloche.

El Bolson is known as a bohemian village famous for its artisan crafts and micro breweries, as well as magnificant views of the mountain peaks.  I naturally sampled a few of the locally brewed beers (all in the name of research for work purposes of course!) and then spent three days hiking in the surrounding national parks.  The scenery was amazing and this time was fortunately blessed with great weather.  Most of the hiking was uphill so needless to say I could barely walk a few days afterwards!  I stayed in a refugio for one night which was a huge log cabin in the mountains where I met many other hikers.  One morning I hiked up a mountain to see the glacier which involved some pretty difficult scrambling over rocks so its not surprising that I fell over 6 times on my descent!  El Bolson is definitely a highlight of my travels so far and I would recommend it as a must see in Argentina. 


El Bolson

El Bolson

El Bolson

Hiking to Cajon Azul

Crossing a very dodgy bridge!

Highest point to Cajon Azul

Refugio

Rio Azul

Another interesting bridge crossing!

Hiking to Hielo Azul

Glacier Hielo Azul

Week 7 - La Serena & Santiago, Chile and Buenos Aires, Argentina

This week consisted of travelling down through Chile spending one night in La Serena before heading to Santiago where I spent a couple of days.  I then headed to Buenos Aires taking the flight option instead of the 27 hour bus journey and spent a couple of days relaxing in the city eating steak and drinking lots of very nice malbec!  As I am returning to both Santiago and BA I will endeavour to update you with sight seeing and photos in the next couple of weeks. 

Wednesday, 2 March 2011

Week 6 - La Paz, Oruro, Uyuni - Bolivia, San Pedro de Atacama, Chile

This week I travelled from La Paz to Uyuni via Oruro in order to do the Salar de Uyuni tour, the one must see of Bolivia.

The tour lasted 3 days and I have to say was the biggest highlight of my trip so far.  In a group of 6 people we travelled by jeep and first visited the Railway Cemetary located 3km south of Uyuni.  The trains were mostly used by mining companies but when the industry collapsed in the 1940´s the trains were left abandonned in the middle of the desert.  Our next stop was Salar de Uyuni, the world´s largest salt flat.  Due to it being wet season there was a sheet of water covering the salt which in my opinion made the overall effect breathtaking, as you can see from the photos below.  The rest of the trip was spent driving through the desert towards Chile visiting lagunas, geysers and hot springs.  Every hour the landscape would change, each completely different yet just as beautiful.  This for me was Bolivia at its best. 





Railway Cemetary - Uyuni

Railway Cemetary - Uyuni

Railway Cemetary - Uyuni

Salar de Uyuni

Salar de Uyuni

Salar de Uyuni

Salar de Uyuni












Laguna Colorado

Flamingos

Geysers

Hot Springs